Monday, February 14, 2011
Arriverderci Ecuador
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Last Day in Ecuador
Through some of this vacation I didn’t think that this day would ever come but looking back on my time in Ecuador I must say that I am grateful for the experience. I have learned a lot about South America, Ecuador, people and most of all myself!
Ecuador is a beautiful country with incredible vistas of lush scenery but with the severe contrast of ill repaired homes everywhere we went except in Cuenca. Cuenca’s homes were gorgeous and since we drove around a good portion of the city I would say it is for the most part in excellent condition. I was told that Cuenca is an international historical site so the older part (where our hostal was) was in good condition.
There are several distinct peoples here. The true indigenous people, the “Ecuadorian” (mixed race) which is the largest part of the population, the old Spanish people (about 4,000 according to one source) and lastly the expats. People from all over the world choose to retire in Ecuador because of the low cost of living, good medical care, temperate climate all year round and because they fall in love with the people.
I loved Mexico for its shopping but I have to say that Ecuador is even better for shopping though you have to appreciate the quality items and not just buy junk or kitsch as they seem to be calling it these days.
There is a lot to see in Ecuador and sadly we barely scratched the surface. Would I come back? Possibly. But first and foremost I would want to be fluent in Spanish. That is my first recommendation to anyone wanting to travel to Ecuador – learn Spanish because virtually no one here speaks or understands English. One of Barb’s friends told us that we were truly living on the edge by travelling without our own vehicle and not knowing any Spanish. Wow, good to know but a little late to be telling me this halfway through my trip!
But I have had lots of rest and lots of sun. Seen plenty, shopped even more.
To quote my grandfather “Ud er godt, men hjem er bedst” --- out is good but home is best!
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Cascades - Tarabita
Saturday in Banos – Feb 12th
We are spending the morning here enjoying some shopping and spa treatments before taking the bus to Quito.
Yesterday we had an amazing morning taking the Cascades Tour and as you can see from the photos I posted yesterday I was having Extreme Adventures. First I surprised myself by going over a canyon on one of those stand-up gondolas with only the tour guide and the operator. Wendanita got cold feet and she didn’t tell me until afterwards that it was because she saw that the fellow was operating the contraption with his feet like a bicycle! Yikes, if I had known that I probably wouldn’t have done it but as it was I had a really exhilarating ride.
Next stop was the long trek to the big waterfall. The walk was beautiful but before we headed down we stopped and I did the big upstaging stunt of having an anaconda wrap around my neck. I could feel the muscles rippling and my face was very wary since the head kept turning around to look at me which I found really disconcerting. I was not comfortable!
After that it was all good, lots of walking and stopping for pictures. At one point we crossed a rickety bridge a la Romancing the Stone! I was pretty brave with that as well. Then for the ultimate, the climb up misty wet steps to the waterfalls. The final part was crawling through cave like structures almost on my hands and knees and at one point Oswald had to haul me up through a narrow gap. But it was all worth it to stand directly under the waterfall. It was awesome, both from the view and the experience of feeling it all. Right at the equator, around tropical jungle like terrain, under a waterfall. What could be more perfect? How about seeing orchids growing directly out of trees? Amazing.
Oswald was our tour guide and like all the Ecuadorian men we have met he was a real sweetheart. We asked about eucalyptus and the next thing we knew he had stopped the car and was climbing up a tree to bring us a branch. Turns out he is also a gymnastics teacher at the high school in Banos. Then he picked orchids for us to take home.
I was soaking wet just from the mist but I had a really happy day!
Friday, February 11, 2011
Upstaging Jeanette
Not to be upstaged by a little sister. I paid $2.00 for this "opportunity". LOL :)
Volcano
Well, all I can say is that volcanoes are a real let down after the way we have been living “on the edge” all these weeks!
We arrived in Banos (sorry I spelled it wrong yesterday) around 4 p.m. without too much in the way of incidents. We only got hustled at the terminal to take a mythical “express” bus and then we had to dash across the highway (2 lanes mind you) to transfer from Ambuto to Banos. Then we got stiffed by the cab driver because he had to wait 5 minutes and take us from one hostal (no reservation so no accommodation) to another hostal. Not bad, it was our first time getting stiffed and what is $5.00 in the scheme of things?
We arranged our room at Hostal Santa Clara (and we can highly recommend this place at $10.00 per person and the room is huge, 3 beds and fantastic bathroom WITH HOT WATER. We thought we were in paradise until Barb came back from registering and had we ransack her backpack and jacket a half dozen times looking for her passport. It was lost. We were panicked to the extreme. Barb went to the young fellow at the counter who tried calling the other hostal in case Barb had left it there. WE were horrified. Barb had her passport stolen last year and so she knows it takes 5 days to get a passport; not to mention the cost of missing the plane. Much as we felt for Barb neither of us were prepared to miss our plane on her behalf. I kept saying, let’s call Marjorie, they may have some connections. Finally Barb agreed and had to go in her suitcase to get her address book. While she was unlocking it I was silently preparing to God to please let the passport be in there even though Barb was positive she had it out at the terminal.
God answered our prayers (Barb had been praying also) and it was found. Hallelujah!
The stress took its toll on me, my left eye which had already begun to twitch developed a sty (the first of my life) and as we were eating dinner I lost my voice (another first). I had to go back to our room to lie down for an hour of rest. I’m sure my blood pressure had skyrocketed. I was out like a light but they woke me just before 9:00 p.m. so that I wouldn’t miss our trip to the volcano.
What a let down. We were basically standing at the top of an ordinary mountain and, yes, we did have a spectacular view of Banos but we had been having scenery like that all day long. There wasn’t even an interpretative centre or any sort of relics of lava and ashes. In other words, it looked like nothing special at all.
But I can say that I have stood at the top of a volcano. wow. (lower case on purpose. J )
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Exit Cuenca Feb 10th (error on yesterday’s date!)
I’m up extra early as we have a taxi calling for us at 7:15 a.m. (no breakfast this morning) as we are leaving for Banjos today. It will be a 10 hour trek which does not thrill me at all. I am rather stressed about this leg of our trip since this is a “party town” and I have heard some horror stories of things that have happened to people.
However, the bright side is that it is a picturesque town with lots of things to see, including numerous waterfalls and a live volcano.
Yesterday I had no luck at the jewelry town (forever to remain nameless in this blog) but afterwards Marjorie and Ken took us to visit some of their dear friends, the Lopez family. Luis is a jeweller who worked in New York for many years and has now returned to his native land in semi-retirement. He has an awesome condo complex which he has built for himself and his 5 daughters and one son and which also has his workshop. After a wonderful afternoon of tea and laughter the youngest daughter Vivienne showed us some of her father’s designs. All I can say is that what I saved in jewelry town I blew in the shop. But I have some original designs by a jeweller I have personally met and admire. Happy day!
I am sad to leave Cuenca as I really love this town and have hardly scratched the surface of it. It is gorgeous and clean. It was founded in 1557 so has a wealth of history, amazing cathedrals and churches, museums, galleries and endless rows of shops and none of which I have seen! Someday I will return to really see Cuenca.
Chow beautiful city!
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Marjorie and Ken
Cuenca Feb 10th
Yesterday we met the most marvellous couple, Marjorie and Ken. Their story has moved me profoundly, to the point of keeping me awake since 3:00 this morning.
They fled South Africa in 2008 and came here to Ecuador with virtually nothing. Ken returned to South Africa and began the process of selling their possessions, giving notice and going through 18 months of rigamarole to get his funds to Ecuador. However, that is not the story that has moved me. Marjorie had 2 sons who were murdered in South Africa. The youngest was 3 and was murdered by his schizophrenic father (he was not diagnosed until after the crime). The older son had a freak accident at the age of 12 when a table umbrella blew up into the air and then struck him, piercing right through his brain. Amazingly he survived until he was 17 but in that time he first made great strides in rehabilitation but then insanity struck him. After much trial and tribulation he was institutionalized and one day he was murdered. The crime was covered up but somehow they were advised to request an autopsy which revealed that the poor soul had been stabbed in both eyes and all around his mouth and throat. (originally they had been told he fell and struck his head on the toilet). They attempted for 3 years to get some sort of justice but in the end they had to give up.
I cannot imagine living with all this tragedy but the amazing thing is that they have forgiven the different people involved in the crime and cover up. They are so warm hearted and generous that I can easily compare them to Immaculee Ilibagiza (Left to Tell author) in their Christian spirit.
There is a lot more to their story but this is all I will write at this time. We are going to spend another day with them today and I look forward to it with pleasure.
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Bus Rider
This should be the title on my tombstone. I’ve been riding buses since I was 14 and I can safely say that I have more busdriver friends than most people. Right across the country I’ve met drivers who have confided their life story to me. From Winnipeg, Montreal, Kitchener, Calgary and odd places here and there. I guess I just have the sort of face that invites confidences.
But now I have met a new challenge. The biggest challenge is, of course, the language barrier but also here in Ecuador the driver is locked behind doors so you cannot speak to him. Another interesting and slightly disconcerting thing is the poster at the front of the passenger unit. They have a picture of the baby Jesus asking for him to give us a safe journey. Considering the serious bus accid
ent that occurred the day after we arrived in Quito (a month ago) is it any wonder I am concerned when we go on these all day jaunts across the country?
However, we arrived safely (thank you Jesus) in Cuenca last night. This is an extremely gorgeous city of about 400,000. It is old colonial Spanish, very prosperous and has a lot of expats living here. The streets seem to all be cobbled and generally every where we drove through has been very clean. I would have to say that at this point, I like this city the best in Ecuador.
We had a great meal in a little pub like restaurant near the central park. I must say that I really have enjoyed all our meals in Ecuador. The food is fantastic, fresh and interesting.
So this is our last week in Ecuador which will be spent sight-seeing. The house ordeal is now behind us. Today we plan on going to the city of jewelry – every girl’s dream come true!
Monday, February 7, 2011
Technically Challenged
Today I am having trouble with the netbook. Somehow I seem to have altered the use of my mouse and it is not accepting a tap or even a double click. I have no idea if I will be able to post any more blogs until my friend Aidan troubleshoots this thing for me! One good thing though, it seems that my spacebar is working properly now. Small consolation.
Today I have to look forward to an 8 or 9 hour bus ride to Cuenca (from Manta). Another day in hell. Don’t I ride the bus enough during my work-a-day life? Can anyone remind me of why I decided to see a third world country for 4 ½ weeks? I must have temporarily lost my mind!
On the bright side of things, and there always is one, so far I have not been food poisoned nor have I been robbed (don’t say that out loud since I still live in deadly fear of the latter). We’ve heard a number of horror stories about robberies and assaults and some are first hand experiences. Quite disturbing.
Perseverance—turns out I had to hold the left button and tap, then I was able to change it back. Only took about 20 minutes; meanwhile I had to think about it and have the computer recharge before our trip.
What a boring blog today. Whine,whine, whine.